Historic wine regions, inspirational producers, storied vineyards
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Burgundy, France
Few regions boast the history, renown, and all-around allure of Burgundy. Tucked away in central-eastern France, this highly regarded region is home to some of the most hallowed growing sites—and thus, sought-after wines—in the world; though in addition to revered land, a meticulous savoir-faire is also key—and the region is certainly home to quite a bit of it.
Historically speaking, viticulture in Burgundy dates back to 200 AD, though the region’s “modern-day” story begins with the Benedictine and Cisterian monks around 700-800 years later. By the 18th century, négociant businesses were beginning to pop up, and better infrastructure allowed for the region’s wines to make their way to Paris and beyond. The first half of the 20th century brought much devastation to the region (numerous World Wars and an economic depression), though by the mid-century point, many winemakers were able to bring their vineyards back to life.
Today, Burgundy is mostly known for its still red and white wines produced from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, though small amounts of Aligoté and Gamay, as well as sparkling wine, are also crafted. Geographically speaking, Burgundy spans from Auxerre in the north to the city of Mâcon in the south, and is most often broken down into five main regions: Chablis, Côte de Nuits, Côte de Beane, Côte Chalonnais, and Maconnais. The region is home to more AOCs than any other region in France, and many even deem it to be the birthplace of the notion of terroir, thanks to the detailed vineyard designation implemented by the Cisterian monks.
Burgundy is home to more than 100 appellations, which are broken down into four categories: regional (Bourgogne), village level, premier cru, and grand cru. These designations are based on quality, and producers must adhere to strict requirements to be able to label their wines as such. Geographically speaking, Burgundy is very hilly, and most vines are cultivated on the area’s slopes. While many soil types can be found amongst the region’s vines, the predominant soils of the area are limestone, clay-limestone, and Kimmeridgian limestone (Chablis).
In total, approximately 30,000 hectares of vines are cultivated in Burgundy today, which accounts for around 4% of France’s AOC-designated vineyards. While a number of large négociants and bigger maisons exist, the region’s most exciting wines are those produced at the hands of smaller domaines and micro-négoces, which are operated by forward-thinking winemakers that put quality and sustainability first.
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The majority of Burgundy’s wine production takes place in the Côte d’Or, which comprises the Côte de Nuits to the north and the Côte de Beaune to the south. The Côte de Nuits runs from Dijon to Nuits-Saint-Georges, and is best known for its red wines produced from Pinot Noir. The most northerly Côte de Nuits, Marsannay, is known for its red, white, and rosé production, and is followed by Fixin, Gevrey-Chambertin, Morey-Saint-Denis, Chambolle-Musigny, Vougeot, Vosne-Romanée, and Nuits-Saint-Georges. Many up-and-coming producers are also located on the outskirts of these big names, in smaller villages that make up the Côte de Nuits-Villages. In total, the Côte de Nuits is home to an impressive 24 grand cru and 100+ premier cru vineyards!
The Benedictine and Cisterian monks are credited with putting Burgundy’s wines on the map, and by the 15th century, were already making names for the vineyards of Chambertin and Nuits-Saint-Goerges. Wines from Nuits became the preferred choice of King Louis XIV during the 18th century, which also started the notion of making “top cuvées” at regional estates. Today, what we know of as the Côte de Nuits runs just about 15 miles long and spans around 1-2 miles in width—making it one of the smallest yet most prolific wine regions in the entire world.
Geographically, most of the vineyards of the Côte de Nuits are planted on east and southeast-facing slopes and experience a continental climate. While numerous soil types exist, most Côte de Nuits’ vineyards are rooted in limestone and clay-limestone soils. Many vineyards are planted at densities of around 10,000 vines per hectare and are pruned using the traditional Guyot system. In the cellar, most red wines from the Côte de Nuits are aged for 12-18 months in 228L barrels, though whether new or used (and how much of each) is at the discretion of each individual producer. Overall, wines from the Côte de Nuits are known for their ethereal flavor profiles, site-specific nature, and incredible ability to withstand long bouts of aging in the cellar.
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The southerly portion of the Côte d’Or is the Côte de Beaune, which gets its name from the main city around which its vines are centered. While the Côte de Nuits is known for its majestic red wines, the Côte de Beaune tends to find its claim to fame in white wine production, though a good amount of world-class red wine is also produced here.
To the north, the areas of Pernand-Vergelesses, Ladoix, Aloxe-Corton, Savigny-lès-Beaune, and Chorey-lès-Beaune lie between Nuits-Saint-Georges and the town of Beaune. To the south, the regarded names of Pommard, Volnay, Monthélie, Auxey-Duresses, and Meursault give way to the crown jewels of Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet, with the villages of Saint-Aubin and Santenay found nearby. To the west, a number of small villages make up the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune.
In total, the Côte de Beaune spans about 15 miles and is around three miles wide, rendering it almost the same exact size as the northerly Côte de Nuits. Similarly, the main soil types of the Côte de Beaune are limestone and clay-limestone, and the area experiences an overall continental climate (though temperatures here tend to be ever so slightly higher than those of the Côte de Nuits). In total, the Côte de Beaune is home to eight grand crus, the majority of which are exclusive to white wines.
As in the Côte de Nuits, many vineyards in the Côte de Beaune are planted at densities of around 10,000 vines per hectare and are pruned using the traditional Guyot system. In the cellar, wines are often vinified and aged in 228L barrels, often with a percentage of new oak (generally higher in grand cru wines). Overall, wines from the Côte de Beaune are known for their concentrated flavor profiles, palate-coating textures, and ability to drink beautifully both in their youth and after years of cellar aging.
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Champagne, France
Despite palate preferences and variations, most wine drinkers can agree on one thing—Champagne is always a good idea, no matter the day or time. Deemed the unofficial sparkling wine capital of the world, this beloved region is located approximately 90 miles east of Paris, and is home to the most exciting vineyards, talented producers, and high-quality bottles on the planet.
Historically, wines were produced in the Champagne region long before medieval times, though they were still, not sparkling. It wasn’t until the mid-17th century that the southern French monk Dom Perignon arrived in the area and shared his discovery of bottle fermentation. Coupled with the findings of English scientist Christopher Merret, the traditional method (otherwise known as the méthode traditionelle or méthode champenoise) of making sparkling wine was born.
In short, Champagne is made by creating a standard base wine, bottling it, then adding a sugar-based mixture (called liqueur de tirage) to the wine to ignite a secondary fermentation in the bottle. The release of carbon dioxide from this second fermentation traps gas within the bottles, thus creating the wines’ bubbly texture. Once complete, the wine is riddled—a process which transmits the dead yeast cells from fermentation to the top of the bottle neck—then the cap of said bottle is popped off, followed by addition (or not) of dosage to determine the wine’s final sweetness level. The different sweetness levels (from dry to sweet) are as follows:
Extra Brut (less than 6 g/L of sugar)
Brut (less than 12 g/L of sugar)
Extra Dry (12 and 17 g/L of sugar)
Sec (17 and 32 g/L of sugar)
Demi-sec (32 and 50 g/L of sugar)
Doux (50+ g/L of sugar)
The three main grapes used in Champagne are Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier, though four other varieties (Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Arbane, and Petit Meslier) are also permitted. While the majority of wines vinified in Champagne are non-vintage blends, the styles of Blanc de Blancs (all white grapes), Blanc de Noirs (all red grapes), and rosé are also produced, as are single-vintage and single-vineyard bottlings. Top of the line bottlings from producers are frequently called prestige cuvées.
Champagne is broken down into five main sub-regions: Montagne de Reims, Vallée de la Marne, Côte des Blancs, Côte de Sézanne, and Aube. In total, the region is planted to nearly 35,000 hectares of vines, most of which are located on sloping hillsides. Overall, Champagne experiences an oceanic and continental climate, though is generally quite cool. The region is known for its signature chalky soils, which create the structure and backbone to the area’s incomparable sparkling wines. While the area was long synonymous with its dazzling houses, an uptick of smaller, family-owned producers (identifiable by the letters RM, or récoltant-manipulant) is breathing new life into this prestigious sparkling wine region.
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Located in the northern part of Champagne, the Montagne de Reims is home to some of the most prestigious growing sites in all of the region. The sub-region boasts nine grand cru villages, making it the most concentrated sub-region for grand crus, and is home to a broad variety of larger houses and smaller grower-producers alike. The Montagne de Reims is tucked between the cities of Reims and Epernay, and is situated directly above the Vallée de la Marne.
Spanning 30 kilometers from east to west, the Montagne de Reims is home to 94 villages spread across approximately 8,000 hectares. Geographically, the sub-region is highly varied, and comprises slopes, plains, and a handful of mountains. The majority of its vineyards are planted facing south, so as to minimize the risk of frost and optimize sunlight exposure, and are rooted in the region's signature chalky clay, limestone, and marl soils. All three of Champagne’s main grapes are cultivated in the Montagne de Reims, though Pinot Noir is the most widely planted (about 40% of total hectares).
The nine grand cru villages of the Montagne de Reims sub-region are Ambonnay, Beaumont-sur-Vesle, Bouzy, Louvois, Mailly-Champagne, Puisieulx, Sillery, Verzenay, and Verzy. While difficult to pigeonhole all of the area's wines into one flavor profile, wines from the Montagne de Reims are generally known for being rich and robust, yet marked by a signature freshness and solid structure.
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Situated below the Montagne de Reims is the Vallée de la Marne, otherwise known as the Marne Valley. The region spans over 100 kilometers, from Tours-sur-Marne to Château Thierry. As its name implies, the vineyards of the Vallée de la Marne are planted on gentle slopes on both sides of the Marne River, though the north bank locations are preferred due to their optimal sun exposure.
Over 100 villages make up the Marne Valley, but the region is home to just two grand crus: Aÿ and Tours-sur-Marne (eight premier crus are also located within the valley). The Marne Valley is also home to the village of Hautvillers, where Dom Pérignon set up shop back in the 17th century. The area is dominated by chalk-heavy soils, and while all three of the region’s famous trio of varieties are cultivated, Pinot Noir takes the lead at 60% of plantings—and despite its lack of popularity in the past, more producers are vinifying single-variety Pinot Meunier bottlings than ever before.
Three of the Marne Valley’s most famous (and highly regarded) producers include Philipponnat, Jacquesson, and Billecart-Salmon.
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Home to six grand cru villages—and a slew of talented grower-producers—the Côte des Blancs is one of the more highly regarded sub-regions of Champagne. Although a number of grapes are cultivated here, Chardonnay is undoubtedly the star of the Côte des Blancs, accounting for a whopping 95% of plantings. Situated perpendicular to the Vallée de la Marne, the region is planted to more than 3,300 hectares of vines, most of which are planted with an east-facing aspect.
As to be expected, the majority wines from the Côtes des Blancs are produced as Blanc des Blancs, and are known for their profound freshness and minerality. The wines’ solid structures and ample amounts of acidity also render them suitable for long-term aging, as well as make them prime candidates for pairing with a variety of food.
The region’s six grand cru villages are as follows: Avize, Chouilly, Cramant, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Oger, and Oiry.
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Arguably the least popular of Champagne’s five sub-regions, the Côte de Sézanne still plays a massive role in the region’s overall wine production. Located due south of the Côte des Blancs—and largely deemed an extension of it—the Côte de Sézanne is home to just 12 villages and around 1,500 hectares of vines, of which approximately 75% are planted to Chardonnay. Contrary to the chalk-heavy soils of the north, the soils of the Côte de Sézanne are composed mostly of clay and some chalky-clay, which allow the grapes to ripen a bit faster than in the other four sub-regions.
Due to the clay-heavy nature of the soils, wines from the Côte de Sézanne are known for their fruit forwardness, though often aren’t as refined as those from other sub-regions. However, due to the ripe nature of the grapes, many of Champagne’s larger houses purchase fruit from the Côte de Sézanne to use in their non-vintage blends.
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Out of all of Champagne’s sub-regions, the Aube is certainly the most unique—and definitely the most up-and-coming. Located about an hour southwest of the Côte des Blancs, the region is actually much closer to Burgundy than Champagne’s four other sub-regions, and similarities to it can be found in the area’s soils and climate conditions. During the early 20th century, larger Champagne houses petitioned to exclude the Aube from the region entirely, though contrary to their desires, it officially became part of Champagne in 1927.
Until recently, the Aube was mostly used as a fruit source for large houses up north, though a wave of talented grower-producers have completely changed the region’s focus over the past few decades. Today, the Aube has become a major hub for organic and biodynamic farming, with terroir focus at the helm of it all. While many northerly producers put a heavy emphasis on non-vintage blends, producers in the Aube focus more on single-vineyard cuvées. Similar to Chablis, the Aube is dominated by Kimmeridgian soils, though contrary to Chardonnay, Pinot Noir is the most widely planted grape in the latter.
Pioneering grower-producers located in the Aube include Marie Courtin, Champagne Fleury, Jacques Lassaigne, and Ruppert-Leroy.
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Tuscany, Italy
Tuscany has been a gateway wine region for drinkers around the globe for decades, and it’s no surprise why. From recognizable bottles of Chianti to easy-drinking vino da tavola, these accessible, acid-driven bottles have found their place on restaurant tables everywhere, as well as in the cellars of industry professionals, collectors, and beyond. The region’s claim to fame is undeniably its Sangiovese-based reds, produced in the highly regarded appellations of Chianti Classico, Montalcino, and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, though a handful of other grapes and styles help make the region as diverse and vigorous as it is. From zesty whites in San Gimignano to powerhouse Super Tuscans in Bolgheri to sweet and unctuous Vin Santo, one thing rings true—in the realm of viticulture, there’s really nothing that Tuscany can’t do.
Viticulture in Tuscany dates back to the 8th century BC, and has been recognized by writers for nearly just as long. The region’s winemaking scene thrived throughout the Middle Ages. Today, Tuscany is Italy’s fifth-largest viticultural region. Located in central Italy, it’s bordered by Liguria, Emilia-Romagna, Umbria, Lazio, and the Tyrrhenian Sea, the last of which creates a mediterranean climate in the area. Tuscany is known for its ample amount of rolling hills, on which most of the region’s vines are planted. These steep hillside locations provide the vines with ample sunlight, as well as optimal drainage. Over 80% of the region’s vines are planted to red varieties.
Tuscany is home to the third-highest production of DOC/DOCG designated wines, just after Piedmont and Veneto. Here, 41 DOCs and DOCGs constitute the majority of regional production, though Tuscany is also home to six regional IGT appellations. The region’s most famous soils are arguably its galestro (schistous clay) and albarese (clay-limestone) found throughout Chianti Classico, though sandy and clay-loam soils are also found throughout the region (specifically with regards to Montalcino and Bolgheri). While each style remains unique in its own right, wines from Tuscany are generally known for their acidity, structure, and ability to pair beautifully with a diverse array of foods.
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In the realm of Tuscan viticulture, Montalcino is the region’s crown jewel. Situated approximately 80 kilometers south of Florence, the area is known for producing some of the best—if not the best—expressions of varietal Sangiovese in the world, which are bottled under the Brunello di Montalcino and Rosso di Montalcino appellations. Although viticultural history in Tuscany runs over a century deep, the first mentions of Brunello date back to the 14th century. By the mid-20th century, Brunello di Montalcino had garnered an extremely high reputation, much in part due to the work done by the local Santi family.
By 1960, 11 families were making Brunello wine; eight years later, the region gained DOC status, only to be elevated to a coveted DOCG ranking in 1980. Around the year 2000, about 200 producers were proudly making Brunello, most of which were—and still are—small, family-owned estates. Geographically speaking, most of Montlacino’s vines are planted at staggering altitudes of over 1,800 feet, and benefit from one of the warmest climates in Tuscany. Only about 1,200 hectares of vines make up the appellation, which are rooted in a mosaic of soil types ranging from limestone, clay, marl (galestro), and schist.
In the cellar, both Rosso and Brunello di Montalcino wines are required to be made from 100% Sangiovese. For Brunello, most fruit generally undergoes a long maceration prior to fermentation, then ages in oak for a minimum two years and additional time in bottle prior to release. (Note: While large-format Slavonian oak is the most traditional, some winemakers opt to use more modern French barriques.) During exceptional vintages, many Brunello producers will craft Riserva bottlings, which require an extra year of aging beyond standard Brunello requirements.
Although every producer will have their own unique expression, most Brunello di Montalcino wines are known for their bright acidity, gritty tannins, and overall solid structure, as well as the ability to age for long bouts of time in the cellar.
